When Jacob, the photo editor at New York Magazine first reached out about this commission,I knew we had an opportunity to create something really incredible. Editorial photography for prestigious publications like New York Magazine demands not just technical excellence, but a distinctive creative vision that stands out in today’s saturated media landscape. Come along while I go through the editorial photography lighting techniques that made this shoot happen!
The creative brief that I put together called for something that would pay homage to the iconic that defined an era. I immediately thought of the groundbreaking work of Craig McDean and David Sims – two photographers whose dramatic lighting and cinematic compositions revolutionised editorial photography in that decade.
But here’s the thing about drawing inspiration from masters: you can’t just copy their techniques. You need to understand what made their work so compelling and then push it into new territory. That’s where the concept of liminal space came into play.
For those unfamiliar with the term, liminal spaces in photography refer to transitional or threshold areas – places that feel suspended between states. Think empty hallways, abandoned spaces, or environments that exist in that mysterious in-between moment. It’s a concept that’s gained serious traction in contemporary fine art photography and commercial photography alike.
The challenge was merging this contemporary aesthetic sensibility with the bold, unapologetic lighting style that made 90s editorial photography so iconic.
Lighting Setup
Let’s talk about the technical side, because your lighting setup can make or break the entire concept.
The hero’s of this shoot were definitely our Arri 2000W Fresnel and our Profoto Zoom Spot . If you’re not familiar with Arri lighting equipment, these are the same lights used in major film productions. The 2000W Fresnel gives you that incredibly hard, directional light source that’s essential for creating dramatic shadows and that signature 90s editorial look. A Zoom spot is a lensed, very theatrical looking fixture that we used a lot as well.
We complemented the single Arri with our flash lighting and an extensive set of gels – and I mean we went all out. The green and pink became particularly crucial for achieving that otherworldly aesthetic we were after. These colour combinations weren’t just an aesthetic choice; they were integral to creating those liminal, surreal spaces that feel suspended between reality and dreams. The interplay between the hard Arri light source, the versatile Profoto equipment, and those bold coloured gels allowed us to transform ordinary spaces into something that felt both nostalgic and completely contemporary.
Many photographers today gravitate toward soft, diffused lighting – and there’s absolutely a place for that. But for this New York Magazine shoot, we needed something with more attitude. Hard light sources create:
- Dramatic contrast that commands attention on the page
- Sharp shadow definition that adds architectural elements to your composition
- Intense colour saturation when combined with gels
- That unmistakable editorial edge that separates magazine-quality work from standard commercial photography
You can see exactly how we built these editorial photography lighting techniques in the behind-the-scenes images – the technical details are all there for anyone interested in replicating similar professional photography techniques.
Working with Celebrities:
Here’s something that separates amateur photographers from professionals: understanding that model direction and collaboration are just as important as your camera settings and editorial photography lighting techniques.
Nicole was absolutely exceptional to work with. In fashion and editorial work, you need a model who can interpret creative direction, embody the concept, and bring their own artistic sensibility to the collaboration. Nicole delivered on all fronts, she was really lovely as well.
What impressed me most was her intuitive understanding of how to work with hard lighting. Many models struggle with the intensity of lights like the Arri. Nicole however, knew exactly how to position herself to make the dramatic shadows work in her favour. That’s the mark of a truly professional model who understands the technical aspects of photography.
The final images exceeded every expectation I had going into the shoot. There’s something magical that happens when you combine thoughtful pre-production, professional-grade equipment, and genuine creative collaboration.
Editorial Insights:
Getting commissioned by publications like New York Magazine doesn’t happen overnight. It’s the result of years of building a portfolio, developing a distinctive style, and proving you can deliver under pressure.
For photographers looking to break into editorial photography, here are the key elements that made this shoot successful:
Technical Excellence: Major publications expect flawless execution. Your lighting, composition, and post-production need to be absolutely dialled in.
Creative Vision: Editors like Jacob are looking for photographers who can interpret a brief while bringing something unique to the table. Anyone can recreate existing styles – the question is, what’s your perspective?
Professional Reliability: When a magazine is on deadline, they need to know you’ll deliver exceptional work on time, every time.
Collaborative Spirit: The best editorial work happens when photographer, editor, and model are all contributing to a shared creative vision.
The Evolution of 90s-Inspired Photography in 2024
What’s fascinating about revisiting 90s photography aesthetics today is how differently we approach the same techniques. The hard lighting and bold gels that defined that era now serve different purposes in our current visual landscape.
Where 90s photographers were rebelling against the soft, dreamy aesthetics of the 80s, today’s photographers using these techniques are often creating commentary on digital saturation and social media’s flattening effect on imagery. The liminal space concept adds another layer – acknowledging that we exist in transitional times, between analog and digital, between physical and virtual spaces.
Camera Choice and Lens Selection: The Technical Foundation
For this shoot, I chose the Nikon D850 paired with the Nikon 85mm lens – a combination that’s become absolutely essential for high-end portrait and editorial work. The D850’s incredible dynamic range was crucial for handling the dramatic contrast created by our hard lighting setup, while still maintaining detail in both the deepest shadows and brightest highlights.
The 85mm focal length is my go-to for editorial portraiture. It provides that perfect compression that flatters subjects while maintaining enough working distance to avoid interfering with the lighting setup. But here’s where things get interesting – I added a Tiffen 1/2 Pro Mist filter to the front of the lens.
The Pro Mist filter was absolutely key to achieving the final aesthetic. While our lighting created those sharp, dramatic contrasts reminiscent of 90s editorial photography, the filter added just enough halation and softness to the highlights to prevent the images from feeling too clinical or digital. It’s that perfect balance between the hard-edged drama we wanted and the slightly ethereal quality that enhances the liminal space concept. The filter also helped the colored gels bloom slightly in the highlights, creating those otherworldly color transitions that make the images feel suspended between reality and dreams.
Behind the Scenes: The Extra Technical Details
For the photography nerds (and fellow professionals) who want the complete technical breakdown of the editorial photography lighting techniques we used:
For the photography nerds (and fellow professionals) who want the complete technical breakdown:
The Profoto Zoom Spot and Profoto Beauty Dish Silver served as our main lighting throughout the shoot, with the Arri 2000W Fresnel providing dramatic accent lighting. We enhanced the setup with those striking green and pink gel combinations, as well as numerous flags, and a large bounce to help fill in shadows.
The Zoom Spot’s precision allowed us to sculpt light exactly where we needed it, while the Beauty Dish gave us that perfect portrait-quality illumination.
The Arri Fresnel added those cinematic accent touches that elevated the entire aesthetic. This multi light approach was essential for achieving those layered shadow transitions that make 90s editorial photography so recognisable.
The versatility of combining the Profoto system with strategic Arri accent lighting gave us incredible control over both intensity and color temperature. Every light was carefully positioned to avoid any unwanted spill that might soften the overall aesthetic, while the colored gels transformed the liminal space concept into visual reality.
The behind-the-scenes documentation shows our complete lighting diagrams and setup process.
It’s always fascinating to see how much work goes into creating images that appear effortlessly dramatic.
Final Thoughts: When Editorial Photography Becomes Art
Looking back at this New York Magazine commission, what strikes me most is how collaborative creativity can push everyone involved to new heights. Nicole’s professional expertise, and our technical execution came together to create something that honours photography’s past while pushing toward its future.
The final image capture that perfect balance between 90s nostalgia and contemporary artistic sensibility. They feel both timeless and completely of-the-moment – which is exactly what great editorial photography should achieve.
For photographers aspiring to work with major publications, remember that technical skill is just the entry point. The real magic happens when you can combine flawless execution with genuine creative vision and professional collaborative spirit.
And yes, having access to professional lighting equipment like this definitely doesn’t hurt either.
You can see the final image on New York’s Website here:
Want to explore more behind-the-scenes insights from high-end editorial shoots? Discover the full lighting setup and extra images from this New York Magazine commission in our technical gallery.
